England – Surf, Sand, and Summit: A Beginner’s Guide to Exploring Cornwall’s Waves and Trails

The sea has captivated me my entire life. It’s always there, a constant factor in my life, yet it looks different every day. Sometimes the sea is rough and unpredictable, with high waves breaking on the shore and carrying everything away. Other times it’s gentle in the sunlight, sparkling like millions of diamonds. No matter how far I live from the sea, I hear its call and its pull on me back to its shores. For many, there’s no better way to immerse themselves in the power and beauty of the ocean than through the exhilarating sport of surfing and that is what I had to experience for myself.

In this blog post, we’re delving into the personal journey from the anticipation building on the drive to the coast (and the nerve-racking drive on the “wrong” side of the road itself) to experiencing the thrill of surfing for the very first time in Cornwall. Oh, and spoiler alert: Me and my partner also embarked on a brief hike along Cornwall’s stunning coastline, which turned out to be quite different from our expectations. But more on that later.

The Journey Begins

Nestled along the rugged coastline of southwestern England, Cornwall boasts some of the most picturesque beaches in the United Kingdom. It’s a place where the land meets the sea in a dramatic collision of cliffs and waves. My partner and I set out on our first camper van holiday together. As someone who had never driven on the “wrong” side of the road before, it made me anxious, resulting in sweaty palms and plenty of swearing due to the seemingly narrow roads and countless roundabouts. I was relieved to spend most of the journey in the passenger seat, taking in the scenery and enjoying the ride.

Our first stop in the southwest of England was Eype, Dorset, where my partner spent many wonderful hours as a child, among other things, skipping stones. The weather was perfect, with bright sunshine and pleasant temperatures, something not always expected in England, even in summer. We sat on the sand and watched a breathtakingly beautiful sunset, which bathed the cliffs in golden light. The next morning, we set off before breakfast to hike a small section of the South West Coast Path. Once again, we enjoyed the best weather (little did we know) as we walked from Eype to West Bay. It was a truly relaxing path along green cliffs overlooking the coast. Since we planned to hike a portion of the South West Coast Path after our surfing course, this first section filled us with positive expectations for the next few days (oh, how wrong we were).

Fueled by a hearty breakfast, we set off for Praa Sands, where we had booked a pitch at the Higher Pentreath Campsite for the next few days. Unfortunately, we had booked too late and didn’t get a pitch with electricity, something I would prefer for next time. Unless, of course, you have a camper with a stronger battery or have put in a good word with the weather gods, because we spent the entire time of our stay battling fog, rain, and perpetual dampness. Nevertheless, it was a cozy campsite, with some extras and satisfactory restroom facilities (unless you place great value on luxury and the absence of spiders). The best part of the campsite was the beautiful view of the beach and the sea, as well as the occasional wonderful sunset. Praa Sands is a nice little town, but there isn’t much to do. So, it was perfect for me and my partner to relax.

Riding The Waves

Thanks to several protected beaches and a variety of surf schools, Cornwall is also a great choice for beginner surfers. For example, we took a two-day course at the Global Boarders Surf School in Gwithian, and I highly recommend it. The beach is sheltered, with perfect waves for beginners, and the entire team was super friendly and welcoming. The only downside, which is unavoidable, is that many groups of various surf schools surf at the same beach and it can get quiet busy. Often, we had to maneuver around or jump off our boards to avoid endangering other beginner surfers and ourselves.

On the morning of our first surfing session, I was feeling quite excited and couldn’t quite envision what lay ahead or how I would perform. I was determined not to embarrass myself, though I couldn’t quite pinpoint who I was worried about impressing. After a brief theory session, we headed straight into the water. Attempting to catch the first waves proved to be more challenging than I initially thought. After many missed waves and even more nose dives back into the water, I finally caught the perfect wave. Immediately, I got onto my knees and then stood up with slightly wobbly legs. When I stood up properly for the first time and didn’t immediately fall back into the water, I felt a surge of joy growing inside me, and I couldn’t help but grin. Of course, I wasn’t particularly fast or graceful in my first attempts at surfing, but the feeling of standing on the board, feeling the wind on my face, and the sun on my skin was simply amazing. However, I quickly found myself back on the beach and had to make my way back into deeper water. This wasn’t easy when the wind was pulling at my board, the waves were trying to push me back to shore, and all the other surfers were more or less trying to go in the opposite direction. At the end of the day, I fell into my sleeping bag, utterly exhausted yet overwhelmingly happy.

On the second day, I found myself less preoccupied with theory and more focused on getting the feel for the right waves and positioning myself correctly on the board. he nose dives became less frequent, and I found myself standing on the board more often. It was a fantastic and liberating feeling. I had missed the ocean immensely, and it was only here that I realized how much it truly meant to me. I felt an inner calmness and tranquility that I hadn’t experienced in a long time. The second day of surfing flew by all too quickly, but it was evident to me that it wouldn’t be my last time, and I had definitely uncovered a new passion. After these two days, I am still very much a novice, but there are already plans to further develop my skills this year, this time in Spain.

The South West Coast Path

The next day began with packing our backpacks and lacing up our hiking boots as we set off on the South West Coast Path. I had never heard of this long-distance trail before and hadn’t done any real research, but after walking the Camino de Santiago the year before, I was eager to hike a section of it. We took the bus to our starting point, St Just in Penwith. After a relaxed walk through the small town, we soon found ourselves surrounded by greenery and getting closer to the sea. The tall, rugged cliffs were a spectacular sight, and as we neared the edge of the cliffs and the sea, the views became even more impressive.

The path hugged the cliff’s edge tightly, gradually ascending higher and higher, while the vast expanse of the sea remained a constant companion. Despite the burning sensation in our legs and the strain of each breath, we pressed on, encountering few fellow hikers along the way. Occasionally, the challenging sections of the path were replaced by flat meadows covered in purple heather, and we could enjoy the views of the numerous coves. After about 8 km, we stopped for the first time at Sennen Cove, at the cozy Sennen Cove Cafe. It felt so good to take the backpack off our aching shoulders, sit down, and take off our heavy hiking boots for a moment to let our feet dry. The food was heavenly after the morning hike, and we almost had to roll out of the cafe because we had eaten so well. However, we weren’t done for the day yet, so we set off again promptly. We still had several kilometers ahead of us, and we had already let a lot of time pass on the trail.

The next stretch of the trail was on slightly easier terrain, and even when it became steeper, we made good progress. Soon, we reached Land’s End, a significant milestone on our hike. Unfortunately, the weather had changed, and a dense fog enveloped the entire length of the coast, limiting our visibility to barely more than the next cove. The view must be overwhelming when the sun is shining, casting everything in warm light and causing the sea to sparkle in the sunlight. We quickly departed Land’s End, as this tourist attraction felt too crowded for us after our peaceful march. After that, it quickly became quiet again, and we were once more at one with nature.

The trail had several highlights to offer, such as Enys Dodnan Arch and Nanjizal Beach. Sometimes, spectacular views only revealed themselves after walking for some time and glancing back at the path we had traversed. For instance, we stumbled upon a cove with numerous deep caves that were completely hidden from view on the other side. With the first signs of exhaustion setting in after another 8 km, we stopped at Porthgwarra Beach and indulged in a well-deserved portion of fries and a Cornish pasty at the Porthgwarra Cave Cafe. At this point, we still had roughly 9 km of trail ahead of us.

The path continuously ascended and descended along the cliffs, with sections where we had to climb over rocks or hug the protective rock face tightly as the cliffs dropped several meters to our right. We had vastly overestimated our abilities. Upon reaching the next major town, we decided to take the bus to get closer to the campsite where we planned to spend the night camping. As soon as we disembarked the bus, it began to pour down rain, adding wet feet to our exhaustion. We opted to take the public footpath instead of being exposed to the speeding cars along the road. However, this path was in rather poor condition, and out of sheer exhaustion, coupled with the bad weather in the middle of summer, I began to shed my first tears. Fortunately, we eventually reached the campsite, set up our tent, and collapsed into our sleeping bags, utterly exhausted, at 7 p.m.

We set off through the lush greenery to rejoin the South West Coast Path. With just a little over 15 km left to our final destination in Penzance, we took our time, savoring the unique landscape around us. The wind gently caressed our faces, the sea sparkled in the darkest blue, and the cliffs were bathed in warm sunlight. With each step, our feet felt lighter. However, in Mousehole, nearing our destination, I began to feel the first blisters, and every step became a struggle. Additionally, the terrain and scenery changed, as the final stretch did not wind through green forests and meadows along the cliffs, but rather beside a well-traveled road on a paved sidewalk. We were relieved when we finally arrived in Penzance, and I immediately seized the opportunity to swap my smoking hiking boots for flip flops. We briefly explored the town, which unfortunately was a disappointment as many places were closed and did not seem inviting. Back at the campsite, we were glad to trade our tent for our comparatively comfortable camper. Despite not researching the terrain beforehand and overestimating our abilities with the number of kilometers for the first day, it was still a fantastic experience that I wouldn’t want to miss. In hindsight, I would love to go back and hike another section of the South West Coast Path, but this time with a comfortable place to stay for the night. The landscape and tranquility experienced on this trail are so different from anything I knew before. There are scattered small towns where you can stop for a break, but there are also vast stretches where you hardly encounter another soul and can simply immerse yourself in the wild nature —a truly liberating journey.

Reflections On The End Of Our Journey

As our journey along the South West Coast Path came to an end, I couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible experiences we had encountered. From breathtaking cliffside views to unexpected challenges, every moment left an indelible mark on my memory. Despite the blisters and exhaustion, the sense of accomplishment was immeasurable. And as I looked back on our adventure, I realized that sometimes, it’s the unexpected twists and turns that make the journey truly unforgettable.

But our adventure doesn’t end here. There are still countless trails to explore, new landscapes to discover, and endless opportunities for adventure waiting just around the corner. So as we bid farewell to the South West Coast Path, I can’t help but feel a sense of excitement for the adventures that lie ahead. Thank you for joining me on this journey, and I hope our paths cross again soon. Until then, happy trails!